ABOUT Fashion for Goodis the pioneer of collaborative innovation in the fashion industry. Its InnovationPlatform connects brands, manufacturers, innovators, and funders to jointly transform theindustry and to bring new ideas and technologies from niche to norm. Fashion for Good’sprograms are supported by founding partner Laudes Foundation, co-founder William McDonoughand corporate partners, adidas, Arvind Limited, BESTSELLER, Birla Cellulose, C&A, CHANEL,Inditex, Kering, Levi Strauss & Co., Norrøna, ON, Otto Group, Paradise Textiles, Patagonia, PDSLimited, PVH Corp., Reformation, Shahi Exports, Target, Teijin Frontier, and Zalando. Boston Consulting Grouppartners with leaders in business and society to tackle theirmost important challenges and capture their greatest opportunities. BCG was the pioneer inbusiness strategy when it was founded in 1963. Today, we work closely with clients to embracea transformational approach aimed at benefiting all stakeholders—empowering organizationsto grow, build sustainable competitive advantage, and drive positive societal impact. Our diverse, global teams bring deep industry and functional expertise and a range ofperspectives that question the status quo and spark change. BCG delivers solutions throughleading-edge management consulting, technology and design, and corporate and digitalventures. We work in a uniquely collaborative model across the firm and throughout all levelsof the client organization, fueled by the goal of helping our clients thrive and enabling them tomake the world a better place. TABLE OFCONTENTS Introduction6 Chapter 1: Scaling Next-Gen Materials8 Chapter 2: Seizing the Next-Gen Advantage15 Chapter 3: What Brands Can Do Individually19 Chapter 4: What Brands Can Do Collectively24 Chapter 5: Conclusion28 About the Authors 29 Appendix: Glossary30 INTRODUCTION Materials lie at the heart of the fashion industry. They form the foundation of every garment,shaping the design, feel, and functionality of the product. They also define the brand’s narrativeand its appeal to consumers. Beyond aesthetics, materials are pivotal to the fashion industry’senvironmental footprint: They account for 92% of the industry’s total emissions through theirextraction, processing, and production.1When it comes to the cost structure of garments,materials represent around 30% of cost of goods sold (COGS)—ranging from 15–25% in luxuryto up to 60% in the mass market.2 The global landscape is shifting rapidly, with climate change intensifying resource scarcity,geopolitical dynamics disrupting supply chains, and evolving business models demandinggreater sustainability, waste valorization, and transparency. Many brands, however, remain unequipped for the material transition already underway.According to BCG analysis, more than 80% of fashion companies lack sustainable sourcingtargets covering all six key materials—cotton, polyester, nylon, man-made cellulosic fibers(MMCFs), leather, and wool. While preferred materials such as regenerative cotton and bottle-to-textile recycled polyestercontribute to improving sustainability, they only partially address the industry’s challenges,emphasizing the urgency of next-generation (next-gen) materials to deliver deeper andbroader impact. Next-gen materials, including textile-to-textile recycled polyester or lab-grown cottonrepresent a critical opportunity for the fashion industry to significantly transform its impact.(See “Key Definitions.”)These are innovative fibers and materials with enhanced sustainability,performance, or functionality that are currently in early commercialization or development andrequire further technological advancement and cost optimization for widespread adoption.Embracing these materials is becoming a business imperative, driven by tightening regulationsin Europe and beyond, shifting consumer demands, and rapid technological advances. Withdemand for these materials projected to outpace supply by 2030, the need for collectiveindustry action is today more urgent than ever.3This business case will be a key factor inaccelerating the next-gen transition.4 KEY DEFINITIONS Next-generation fibers and materials:Novel and innovative fibers and materials with desired improved environmental and/or social outcomes when compared with conventional options; are currently in early stagesof commercialization or development; and require further technological advancement andcost optimization for widespread adoption. This next generation of fibers and materialspromises to advance solutions for the sustainability and circularity challenges facedby the industry. The vision is for these materials to transition from “next generation” to“preferred existing” status. Preferred existing fibers and materials:Fibers and materials that deliver consistently reduced impacts and increased benefits for climate, nature, and people compared to conventional equivalents through a holisticapproach to transforming production systems. Thes